PARTICIPANTS

Rockmaster in town, and over the water!

In 2011 the Norwegian Rockmaster moved from previous years location of Skarvann in Risør (climbing on rock), to the harbour in the centre of Arendal town, the largest town in Aust Agder. The climbing took place on a custom-built wall made by Top30. This years competition was based on deep water soloing and once the local climbers and scaffolders were finished with the rigging the professionals started the work setting routes. There was a tight schedule during the preparations and for a time it did not look like the weather had plans of cooperating on the big day. Thankfully, everything was good to go by friday night, and the skies were sunny on saturday morning.

The competitors slept in accommodation on Tromøy (an island outside Arendal), and they were bussed into town early in the morning for warming up on our new mushroom boulder, and the qualifying rounds. Competitors competed in four classes, junior and senior for boys and girls. The quality and motivation of all who took part was high and the harbour quickly filled up with curious shoppers who wandered what was going on. The majority of these ended up sitting for hours throughout the qualifying rounds, so this would suggest that this model is perhaps the most "crowd-friendly" of the climbing comps that are used. Everyone likes watching people fall in to water!

In between the qualifiers and the finals the local clubs had built a tower for people to try, and they also set up a friendly speed climbing comp on the same structure.

The ladies and junior classes were somewhat thin, but all the competitors here had done their homework, and the junior boys and the ladies needed super-finals to determine the winner. The result from these super-finals would have also given a respectable standing amongst the seniors! The future looks bright...

The mens class was definitely the best attended, and this ended with a 10 man final, which in the end was won relatively easily by an on-form Magnus Midtbø. His sister won the ladies category, giving a double for both the family and the Norwegians.

The day ended with a banquet at the restaurant backing onto the the wall. This was also attended by the sponsors of the event.

Sunday started cloudy and ended wet, but not before a number of the visiting climbers had made it out onto some of the local crags for a quick exploration. This resulted in some significant ascents and repeats. A short visit certainly provided us with motivated visitors!

We are looking forward to hosting next years event, and are currently discussing which details need some adjustments to improve the competition/festival.

Thanks for 2011!

LA CIUDAD DE ARENDAL CON AURORA BOREALIS EN SEPTIEMBRE


Foto: Endre Wang Johannessen.

Winners of
Norwegian Rockmaster
2011 DWS

Men:
1. Magnus Midtbø (nor)
2. Marcus Jung (ger)
3. Gorka Karapeto Arrue (esp)

Ladies:
1. Hannah Midtbø (nor)
2. Berta Martin (esp)
3. Michelle Kim Theisen (dk)

Juniors:
1.Endre Sandø Evensen (nor)
2.Thilo Schröter (nor)
3.Martin Skaar Olslund (nor)

 

Congratulations to everyone!

News Article

 

21st August 2011: Links to Results and Reviews of the Rockmaster

Link a la television:

These are the links to the web pages where our results have been published (one week after):

 

3rd August 2011: The Rockmaster Trophies have arrived along with the climbing wall - All on schedule!!

Routes from Skarvann - Climbers will go here on Sunday: Download the pdf of the route guides clicking here.

 

speedboats

SPEEDBOATS IN ARENDAL

This weekend saw thet World Cup of Offshore Class 1 speedboats take place in Arendal.

We set up a small psycho block to promote the Norwegian Rockmaster 2011, which will take place on the 12th-14th August.

The participants included amongst others, the Norwegian climber AXSEL LUND SVINDAL, formula one speedboat racer STEFANO CASIRAGHI and rally driver TOMMY RUSTAD as well as two of our junior competitors.

In the photo, EIVIND SANDVIK ( a GAKK junior) jumps down having completed the most dificult part of the block.

See the video of the event on faecbook

MUSHROOM BUILDER

click to zoom click to zoom click to zoom click to zoom

Alongside the two climbing towers, one 6m and the other 10m, will be this builder mushroom, forming part of the junior competition (12-16 years) and it will also serve as a warm-up area for 16-19 years and seniors. This will all take place in Kanal Plassen.

June 2011 : Article about Psicobloc on Desnivel

 

20th March 2011: Rockmaster in the news: News Article in fwv.no

Wall

LIVE ARENDAL WEBCAM: www.agderposten.no

Patxi Arocena - official routemaker

equipador

Ex-Competitor and Champion of Spain several times. Ex- Top 10 in the World and various international podiums.

National and International Routemaker.

Has laid out the routes for various competitions throughout the world, the Indoor World Cup and over a dozen world cups in Italy, France and Spain, as well as over a hunded national and masters competitions.

Has climbed over fifty 8a+ on sights, with 8c+ maximum.

 

 

2010 EVENT SUMMARY

The dust is now settling after this year's successful Rockmaster here in Sørlandet. The competition itself went extremely well, despite a number of unexpected falls and a few delays from the judges, we were finally able to crown this year's winners; the results being as follows.


Men:

1. Daniel Jung (Ger)
2. Steve McClure (UK)
3. Magnus Högstrøm (Swe)

 

Ladies:

1. Juliane Worm (Ger)
2. Malin Holmberg (Swe)
3. Andrea Curtas (Spa)

 

Malin had climbed extremely well throughout the day, but Juliane's effort in the ladies final being arguably the climb of the competition, Juliane managed to fire up the crowd with this massively impressive demonstration of strength, tenacity and flexibility, gunning well past the other climbers high points to eventually fall from what looked like a long move on thin crimps.

The men's final was a lot closer, with a count back to the qualifiers being necessary to decide 1st and 2nd place. Steve McClure stood for the day's only top-out on the first qualifier.

Despite a lower turnout for the party than for the comp, the evening also was a success, "Font" from Stavanger played a really great set, I don't want to try and pigeon-hole their music, but it was good, and it was different! "I Wish I Had An Atomic Bomb" rounded the evening off with an energetic performance.

All the climbers rubbed shoulders with the punters on Sunday and started a big ticking operation in the park. A number of routes received first ascents and Steve on-sighted the long steep 8a+ arête at the end of the crag. Gorka had also bagged this route a few days previously. Most of the climbers reported afterwards on their blogs and sponsors websites about the visit, both the comp and the day in the park. A number of the un-climbed lines in the park were cleaned and finished, and Steve also got in a trad first ascent, with Børre promising the line an anchor if Steve topped out. This was of course not a problem! More details/topos to follow…

Børre then acted as host for both the German and the Spanish contingent with a trip to Urdviki and some of Sørlandet's other climbing attractions. Martina Curfar made the first repeat (to the best of my knowledge!) of Modalhorn's 8a+ and Daniel and his companions had a go at some trad at Hægefjell in Nissedal.

Børre also treated the same group to a trip out on his boat, and this day ended with a DWS session on the "Flåteveggen" in Tvedestrand, with many of the group topping out the crag!

A number of the contestants have written about their Norwegian experiences in various blogs since their visits to Sørlandet, here are a few links:

IN THE PRESS

Forderlandsvennen Article (Norwegian Language)

Agderposten Article (Norwegian Language)

Steve McClure News Article [ new ]